Eight days and about 900km later. We have gone down Baja Norte down the coast of Sea of Cortez. This part of Mexico is very untouched. It’s vast and dry. Desert and mountains. It’s very beautiful. This time of the year the temperature is perfect for us Northern Californians. It’s never too hot during the day and a slight chill at night.
Simon and I are big seafood fans so naturally are eating out much more than we should. I have been ordering caldo de mariscos every time we eat out and love it. This particular bowl is from a restaurant called La Morena in San Felipe and featured everything we found on the beach actually…clams, octopus, snails, fish. We are still searching for the quintessential Baja fish taco. The ones we had didn’t impress us.
After San Felipe, it was another couple hours drive on pavement to Gonzaga Bay where it’s dry camping but still cost $10 for the “campsite”. This part of Baja is more expensive than we thought. We are not ready to bush camp though as we have some rules that we try to follow…like don’t drive at night and don’t bush camp with the kids unless it feels really safe. Although one of these rules we have already broken. In Gonzaga Bay we bought some fresh halibut from the fisherman. 100 pesos or about $8 for 3-4 pounds. Fed us for two nights when we made our own caldo de pescado!
After Gonzaga Bay we had our first car trouble. We had been anticipating having to deal with this at some point but of course didn’t think it would happen so soon. On a bad bounce we broke the bracket that held the left side shock absorber. Simon found it when we stopped at Coco’s Corner which is a midway stop on the stretch of rough road between Gonzaga Bay and Hwy 1, a stretch that is part of the Baja 1000.
Coco himself is a legend. Living solitarily in the middle of the desert, he built the roadside stop from scrap materials. We were inspired by his strength and humor living such a physically and mentally demanding life even after losing both legs. Also in our case, being so kind and generous in helping us take out the shock absorber before the scraping did any more damage.
After Coco we made it to Bahia de Los Angeles in the dark and woke up to this view.
In Bahia de Los Angeles we stayed for three nights waiting for the town welder to return so we could get the shock absorber back on. We felt a little stuck because we are at a stage in our travels when we are simultaneously excited to see the next place although we also feel a bit road weary. Really we are still adjusting to life on the road, finding our rhythm. Here in Bay of LA we shouldn’t complain about being stuck though. The bay is picturesque and calm, sheltered by the mountains behind it and the islands in front of it. It’s a perfect place to slow down and do nothing.
A final highlight from this past week. Jamie turned 10 months!